My engine it seems to not be setup corretly

I am not sure what to look for anymore.

It runs, it revs ( I like the way it revs) it does seems to be a guzzler when running in the city.

it idles at 1k rpm.... when I know it should idle at 800+ rpm.... it never does down to that rpm unless I am driving and happen to stop.... it first drops down to 800+ but goes back up to 1k....

This is the current setup of my car:

7AFE head, throttle body and intake
192cc 7afe injectors (red 13.8 ohm)
5AF block and piston (stock)
4AFE 4-1 tubular headers (OEM)
5AFE harness ( I know it is 5afe since it only has the 4+2 distributor, the 4afe has a 6+2 pin dizzy) with 5AFE MAP sensor ( gold colored one) modified for 4afe 6+2 dizzy by adding 2 wires
4AFE JDM ecu 89661-1A360
7afe metal head gasket (.8mm)

88 degree thermostat

I modded the 5afe harness myself and installed it... a mechanic friend of mine installed the head. It actually works so good it runs nicely....

But the 1k rpm idle is worrying me to death.... I know the idle should be 800+ rpm and not 1k rpm.... am I worrying about nothing? Also the fuel consumption is quite higher although I have never driven it out of town before.... its my city car when I need to go somewhere within metro manila...

I checked everything that I could check:

ISCV ( normal resistance for 7AFE 17-22k ohms between RSO to center terminal and RSC to center terminal.... it read 19K ohms)
CTS sensor also in the normal range 1.6K ohms at 27-30 degree Celcius (day temps here), 260 ohms at normal engine temps (92-94 degrees C)
IAT is also in the normal range 1.6K ohms resistance at cold temps... resistance goes down when I touch the sensor end

I also installed a knock sensor on the block.... but since I did not want to have it machined, I winged it and made myself a bracket and a nut to hold the knock sensor in place.... I know it works since I tested by placing it on the cylinder head..... it was giving me false knocks at 3K rpm..... the signal was too high so I had to place it on the intake side engine block near the top, where the cylinder head is.

now there is not false knocks even when I rev it to 6K rpm....

MAP sensor reading is a bit vague though, I get 3.6V at key on, ignition off and 1.6V when at idle. I am not sure if that reading should be the norm for my engine or should it be lower...

One thing that may contribute to the fuel consumption I think is the fuel injectors.... a bit too big for the stock fuel injectors programmed into the 4afe ecu that I am using.... it was supposed to be a 176cc... but since I am using the 7afe head, it came with the red 7afe injectors...

I also installed what they called the MAP enhancer... its simply a potentiometer connected to the signal of the MAP sensor so you can lower the voltage output if you want to... I lowered the voltage signal to approximate the signal being made by a 176cc injector.... I calculated that I need to lower the voltage by 7% for it to be correct.

Oxygen sensor came from a 1NZFE.... and mine uses a 4 wire heated one.... it is exactly the same wiring on the harness.... though I am not sure if the calibration would be the same for the 4afe JDM ecu..... Anyone can point me in the correct selection of the oxygen sensor?

Would the oxygen sensor from a JDM 4efe get me the correct response to the ecu? FYI, the ae101 and AE111 the are sold in the Philippines do not have oxygen sensors.... they have a variable potentiometer instead, so no luck there..... All the parts I got are from JDM engines....

Second, how do I know if the engine is in closed loop? I cannot find any info regarding the 4afe about this or does it ever go into closed loop at idle?

When I measure the oxygen sensor output at idle, normal engine temps, it is around .2-.3V and not switching back and forth as with most other videos I find in youtube and the description I read from the other forums...

there is one test I did find that explains how to test if the engine is going into close loop.... what I remember is this:

engine at normal temps
digital multi meter set at 20V DC
you short TE2-E1 on the diagnostic port
positive probe at VF pin and negative at E1

rev the engine to 2500 rpm and measure how often you get voltage readings. I believe it should be 8 to 10 cycles within 10 seconds..... I think

that voltage reading is equivalent to the needle swing you see in an analog multi meter.... it should swing 8 to 10 times within 10 seconds....

but I have never tested this on my car yet.....

I will post links to this when I find it....

Oh and I was able to make an OBD 1 reader using my laptop and a software I found in the internet... It was made by a russian and requires just one DIY component and a USB to serial adaptor...

I will post links to this as well.

Thanks for any info you can post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have an update to this and this may help a lot of you who are looking for mods to the 4AFE...

use a 3SFE ecu, either manual or automatic then use the 7AFE red fuel injectors.

I replaced the 5AFE ecu and by mistake I got an automatic 3SFE ecu....

I then ensure that all pins at the same with the 4AFE harness specially the G1/G-, NE+/NE-, IGF/IGT, RSO/RSC pins. All other pins are identical, just different placements. There are subtle differences to where you should place the NSW pin as well.

for a manual ecu, you can put the NSW pin to the starter line and it should not matter but an A/T ecu, you must connect the NSW pin to the ignition ON wire on your ignition switch to tell the ecu that you are in "neutral".

This is the ecu part number that I got: 89661-2D140

Its from a Caldina A/T. Now it idles at 750 rpm when the temps goes half, and stays there.

The best part about this is that it is now able to utilize the 200cc injectors to its fullest without using too much fuel....

and it runs too fine as well.... But I needed to make myself an ecu adaptor since the harness I am using is 26-16-12 connectors and the ecu uses 26-16-22 sockets.... the placements of the wires are also jumbled about so I had to rewire the ecu adaptor to connect it to the proper wire in the harness.

Runs better now than it did using the first 4AFE ecu I had.

All toyota ecu had pin identifiers in the PCB. Just open the top cover and look for the pin names near the ecu socket.

Follow the ecu pin placement rather than the wire color. This is you best chance to do a rewire correctly.

Now, if you cannot find a 3SFE ecu that has G1/G-, NE+/NE-, you may find 3SGE manual ecus that have the same 26-16-12 ecu socket connectors.

This have a different distributor than the 4AFE BUT the good news is that you can also use a 4AGE silvertop/blacktop distributor, igniter and ignittion coil there on your 4AFE as well and it should fit with no problems.

The early 3SGE and 4AGE ST/BT dizzy use different pin designation than the 4AFE and it is usually G, G1, G2, G-, NE, IGF, IGT..... IGF/IGT connects directly to the igniter and the 5 wires connect directly to the distributor.

another different thing with 3SGE/4AGE ST/BT ecu is that they use sequential fuel injectors rather batch fire like all 2nd gen 4AFE harnesses. You either use a modified 3rd gen 4afe harness OR modify your harness with 4 extra wires going from the injectors to the #10, #20, #30 and #40 pins of the ecu.

Lots of possibility here. Heck, I may even use a 3SGTE ecu (early gen) if I want 200HP stock power on my 5A block.

no aftermarket stuff, no testing, no "tuning".... its stock, but its modified.