Toyota OEM Equalizer

Happy New Year AE101Owners Club
I am a newbie here, and also a newbie toyota owner, just got a Corolla XE 1997 model a month ago and I am planning to install the Toyota OEM Equalizer EN-5110.

I am having a little nightmares on the plug conversion, I have seen a video on youtube but its not clear to me on How the conversion(wiring).

any idea and tips or links will be appreciated.
here is the video from Youtube.

I have the same, not had a chance to fit it yet

on the youtube vid this is what it states

Here's the pinout for those who find one of these:

Pins numbered as looking into the mating side of the stock round 13 pin male DIN plug, left to right, top to bottom with the tab at the top. (I cut my plug off and just went by the wire colours).

1 - Light Blue - Left in (from source RCA)
2 - Pink - Left out (to amp RCA)
3 - Light Green - Right in (from source RCA)
4 - Purple - Right out (to amp RCA)
5 - Red - N/A (TNS ground/supply maybe?)
6 - Green - N/A (TNS - signalling for stock system)
7 - White - +12v Remote (Remote turn-on supply)
8 - Black - N/A
9 - Grey - Ground
10 - Orange - +12v Constant supply
11 - Yellow - +12v Illumination
12 - Brown - N/A (system control)
13 - Blue - Mute
Flylead - +12v ignition (don't miss this one out)


To hook this up to your standard after market wiring colours:

Stereo wiring (standard after market colour scheme) - EQ wire colours
Black (Ground) - Grey
Blue (Amp turn on) - White
Yellow (+12V) - Orange
Orange (Illumination) - Yellow
Red (Ignition) - Flylead

RCA grounds/shield connect to the shield on the multicore cable.
It may also be a good idea to make sure the case is grounded to the chassis. The stock brackets will be ok if they have continuity to ground.

miib14 wrote:

Flylead - +12v ignition (don't miss this one out)

STEREO - EQ
Red (Ignition) - Flylead

RCA grounds/shield connect to the shield on the multicore cable.

I am having a bit of trouble too, OP. But for the one I have it is 10 pins and model EN-5120  , and I am still trying to figure out what each one of them means through cross-referencing with the 13 Pin but it is really difficult to be sure. There is pretty much no information about it at all......

[Edit insert]


I also was wondering what the video details meant by "flylead" I thought that was just a general term for all FREE wires, or that he was referring to the bare wiring but later he says it is the shield surrounding the colored wires is ground. SO I was wondering if that is just some foreign term or am I missing something? There has to be someone more electrical savvy than I.

I tried to make some sense of it through a diagram but it is still incomplete. The 12v ignition is still not added, So don't take this as being done. I wouldn't want you to incorrectly wire something and fry any components . I would like others to correct me if I am wrong in any part of it just for your own assurance.. And if others do I will correct it as necessary and use my masterful MS Paint skills.

Here is the plug. I added the color pin out in my previous post. And what the video's EQ should look like.


I removed all the plastic pieces very carefully with pliers, and I was able to keep the pins. And One more thing to note is that I removed the metal shroud because it wasn't needed and you could see where the remnants of the metal shroud holds the bare wiring against the insulation.


Hopefully someone could help me in figuring out what wire means what on mine but I took it apart to see what went where. on the board. I am still trying to figure this out.

A bit of an update but not so much as to the 10 pin. (the one I have)

The Orange lead is 12v Constant, Gray wire is the lead that turns on the lighted buttons but not the display, and the Black lead is ground. I did in fact blow something... twice, which initially when I took it apart was a SMD transistor from applying 12v to the YELLOW lead, and so I put a (SOT-23)PNP transistor in and put 12v on it and nothing happened, so i put an  (SOT-23)NPN transistor in and put 12 again and it popped again. So I am pretty sure the NPN is the right one. Haha not the best test but well it worked. And when it popped nothing else happened seems like the other transistors that are hooked along with it are okay. they don't look popped or anything, and after I took it out the burnt smell went away.

BUT that is where I am. I am not sure why the display isn't showing though, they light but the buttons, but they don't function either. There is probably another 12v wire that needs connected or some type of signal wire that is keeping it from coming on. I already tried putting 12 volts on all the other wires that I wasn't using while it was powering the lights on the buttons on and nothing happened, except the yellow one of course, and applying leads to ground and nothing happened..
So maybe I need to find out which ones are line in and out, and maybe something will show up on the display. If anyone else on the forum can help if they try looking in the side and seeing the array of wires as it is in the last picture of my last post, it could help me.

I saw one  "Kiwi-Corolla" had done the wiring right and he is here on this forum. Maybe he can help us figure it out as I also intend to get one for my corolla..

Indeed I have asked him about it, although he has the 13 pin version. And he gave me some information on the term "flylead" which by his words was the largest wire out of all the wires, after looking at the video of the equalizer on YouTube, there is another shrouded line and then to red wire that is coming from the equalizer which is what is probably used for 12v switched/ignition. But this trouble child 10 pin has been nothing but trouble I was lucky enough to find out the orange and gray just by finding two voltage regulators on the board and a transformer. But everything else for this different one is still continuing to be a shot in the dark.

Hi everyone,

I recently got my hands on a graphic equaliser (EN5000) as well. I'll be wiring it into my Corolla when it arrives in a few weeks. It has a 13 pin plug, the same as the EN5110, so I assume the functions of each pin will be consistent with the layout of both pinouts. I will keep you guys posted as time goes on.

Special thanks to Elements616, he single-handedly has put an end to this thread now with the first and only wiring diagram for the 10 pin Equalizer. He provided me with the pictures necessary for me to trace the wires to their respective location and it did give me detail on the key differences of these two boards, which is slim but significant.  



Bad news from my end though as for sure my model is toast now that I realize the error I made trying to throw a 12v in every direction. But where I fail you will succeed. Thanks again to everyone who contributed. And thanks again Brandon for your help! I can't express that enough.

Today I got my Graphic Equaliser installed and it went off without a hitch. It looks great and the unit is 100% functional. Now I need an amp to get a stronger signal out of the unit, which I will get in the coming weeks, however until then I'll work around it.

I noticed the Graphic EQ responds to exterior sounds like general driving, opening or closing doors, stamping my foot on the car floor, or knocking on some of the panels. Each time a noise is made that resonates through my Corolla, the Graphic EQ responds too. Is this normal? Would anyone know what may be causing this?

Update time. This is how the Graphic EQ looks at the best of times. I'll upload more photos if requested.


I got the amplifier installed just before Christmas and I've now got 6.5" speakers in the front doors. Everything sounds great and the Graphic EQ works like magic--except for one thing.

More often than not, three columns on the display panel stop responding to the music, no matter which display pattern I select. Through my daily drive though, the columns will come back on and start doing their thing, but then at any time they could just stop again. The columns don't completely turn off because if I tune the EQ, the columns light up just fine. It only appears to not respond when it's supposed to be pulsing to the music. These three columns are the 1k, 2k and 4k columns, the 4k column being third from the right.

I spent some time experimenting with this and trying to figure out what the cause may be. I initially thought it may be a dodgy capacitor causing the issue and I haven't completely ruled that out yet. I have more reason to believe it may be a loose connection somewhere on the board.

If I drive on a rough road, the columns could stop and start several times, however if they start working and I get on to a smooth road, they'll keep working until a jolt or motion makes them stop again. A good example is that I drove home the other day and it was fully lit up working perfectly. The next morning, the EQ was working exactly the same with all columns lit up.


So a loose connection seems to be the prime suspect here. I removed metal case and front cover to see if there were any noticeable problems and there was nothing at all. This leads me to believe that there could possibly be an issue on the display panel which is near impossible to look at as I think the EQ display has been soldered to the board, besides I'm not brave enough to take that panel off. Removing the case and display cover was more than enough to get me concerned that I'd break something.

For anyone who's wondering, yes the EQ still worked after I did this (photo below). It's something I hope I never have to do again as this item is so rare.

woah, you took that thing apart lol